"We need to spark action as an industry, no one can do it by themselves"
Last week, the BRC hosted its second Fashion Sustainability Summit, in partnership with H&M and Reconomy. Bringing together leading brands and retailers from across BRC membership, the summit focused on how we can achieve a sustainable fashion industry. Through two insightful panels and various presentations from panellists, attendees explored the ways in which policy is progressing sustainability within the sector, as well as new innovations and best practices being already adopted. The key takeaway from afternoon was the importance of collaboration within the industry and Governments.
Part 1: Regulation
Reconomy: EU vs UK: What’s going on across the channel?
Did you know? 9% of unused textiles in EU market destroyed every year – weight of 59 Eiffel towers.
Aimee Campanella, Business Development Director, Textile EPR, Reconomy, highlighted the status of various textile policies around the world but homed in on Eco Design for Sustainable Products Regulation and Textiles EPR. She also spoke about Digital Product Passports, and how this data will both help regulators as well as build consumer trust and demonstrate accountability. Aimee noted that the EU is not just driving legislation, it is writing the rule book as it seeks to push for transparency in supply chains and combat over-production. Aimee warned attendees that with textile becoming an increasing priority in the UK, early preparation is key to be in strongest position when policy systems go live.
- Key policies: Eco design, digital product passports and ban on destruction of unsold goods
- Key milestones: July 2026 – ban on destruction of unsold goods, 2027 – DPPs for textiles, by April 2028, textile EPR systems must be fully operational for all member states of EU
“EU isn’t just acting on sustainability, it is writing the rule book”
H&M on European perspective on regulation
Marcus Hartmann, Head of Public Affairs and Sustainability at H&M, spoke about their first sustainability report back in 2002. It has enormously evolved since then but has kept H&M accountable and their investors informed. H&M are on track for all the Science-based 2040 targets. He stressed how vital progress, legislation, action are for the industry to make tangible progress in sustainability space.
M&S on UK perspective on regulation
Katharine Beacham, Head of Materials and Sustainability at M&S, emphasised how durability is a core focus for M&S, and they are continuing to innovate with new initiatives and brand partnerships, for example resale schemes. They are already testing products against eco-modulation fees. M&S stressed that we must not wait for legislation, we must get ahead and that collaboration across industries will make the core difference.
“Don’t wait for legislation, keep moving”
Panel 1: How can the industry drive innovation?
Chaired by Retail Week with panellists from H&M, Reconomy, M&S and BRC, this first panel explored the progress in adopting circular business models across the fashion industry and the key role of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for Textiles in driving progress – and aligning efforts – across the UK and EU.
Key points:
- Data, preparation and collaboration are key
- Important to make business case to implement sustainable practices within a company
- Assess where gaps currently lie and take action
- Harmonisation is key - textiles EPR in the UK must align with the EU system.
What else we need from tEPR: Government must work with industry to ensure scheme is designed in way to respond to needs of retailers, and drive change. Eco-modulation fees must be ringfenced for recycling infrastructure in the UK.
What’s next to drive innovation? Decarbonising the supply chain and working with the national grid.
Call to Action:
- Vital for individual retailers to lend their voice to lobbying efforts.
- Must support smaller design brands who have less resource - so important to create forums and spaces for retailers of all sizes to share best practice and learn from one another.
Part 2: Innovation
Seasalt on delivering circularity from a brand perspective
Laura Watson, Chief Creative Officer at Seasalt, spoke about progress made within the ESG team at Seasalt, recently obtaining B Corp certification. They highlighted their new partnerships, their focus on natural fibre products which use recycled cotton and linen. She spoke about new initiatives, such as taking their best-selling products and remaking them entirely from denim waste. They are focused on circular collaboration, data sharing, industry advocacy, internal education, and creating a new generation of fibres.
Circulose on embracing new materials
Esther Haitink, Brand Partnerships Director at Circulose, spoke about what Circulose does, taking pulp and converting it into new fibres. They are striving for the quality of this converted fibre to be on par with virgin viscose. When creating new materials, it is vital that you actually plug a gap in value chain. Circulose working with major retail brands, most recently M&S. M&S spoke about how important it is to educate those holding the purse strings within businesses on these issues to get them on board.
Oxfam on charity reuse and circular economy
Julie Tyrell, Head of E-commerce & Retail Sustainability, and Kathryn Sweet, Head of Private Sector Partnerships at Oxfam, spoke about role of charities within circular fashion. Oxfam are working with brands on resale, repairing and upcycling. They are laser focused on supporting workers rights in supplier regions. Spoke about how they’ve made their stores, warehouses and delivery trucks more energy efficient, are reducing waste, and building greater transparency.
Panel 2: How can the industry drive innovation?
Chaired by Retail Week, with panellists from Seasalt, Circulose and Oxfam, this second panel explored how brands can successfully innovate.
Key points:
- Be bold
- Internal buy in is vital - senior leaders must be passionate about driving sustainable practices so that it sits centrally within strategic priorities. This makes teams passionate and engaged, as well as partners.
- Resale schemes need to deliver a commercial benefit to both brands and charities.
What’s next?
- The BRC published BRC's Governing Principles for a UK Textiles EPR and we are keen to push this agenda forward with Government. For more information on how you can get involved, contact Sophie.
- We'd love to have your input in our various monitor and benchmarks, especially our Preloved Benchmark. Please contact Tina to get involved.
- Join our Textile Net Zero Working Group. For more information on how you can get involved, contact Tracey.
- Join our Textile Nature Working Group. For more information on how you can get involved, contact Sophie.
